A Week on the Edge: D3 – Circumnavigation of Hirta and Soay

Today was a day of very mixed feelings, from fearing for my life to being deliriously happy to be alive – the latter probably induced by making it through a few situations alive! - And all those no so extreme feelings in between: but mainly fear. It was a day of risk and adventure, and seriously questioning my reasons for doing this, and rediscovering the answer. A day when I felt lonely and would have appreciated company, but also appreciated the loneliness that solitude brings and the insightful perspective on life that can bring.

I set off on my paddle after a breakfast of sausage and mushroom sandwiches and mint tea. There were many high and low points today – I'll try and distil into the most interesting...

I left the bay through the gap between Dun and Hirta and set off west. The south coast of Hirta is incredible, a baron, rough vertical landscape, punctuated by dykes, dotted with sea birds and rendered with plants. Coming into the swell was pretty intimidating, it's hard to say how big the swell was but at times it was probably around 10 feet – this was a calm day. Dodging in and out between the skerries, going in as close as I felt comfortable with, I explored the caves – I couldn't really go that close because there were so many waves crashing on rocks and so much white water it would have been crazy even by my standards. I got to the gap between Soay and Hirta and eyed up an arch.

For a short while I'd been hearing a banging and thought I might have been taking on water and it was sloshing around in the boat. Just then I looked behind me and say my day hatch cover was off! Disaster – all the flares were soaked! This was a big problem. After a couple of minutes of trying to work out how this had happened and trying to decide what to do, I came to the conclusion that I would just carry on – what use were flares when I had neither mobile phone or VHF signal and the nearest lifeboat was probably half a day away?! This is the thing I really enjoy about paddling on your own, you've only got yourself to worry about and can do what you want – not to say I don't enjoy paddling with other people too – but the lack of responsibility for anyone other than yourself is quite liberating.

Back to the arch...after waiting for a calm period I went for it, just as I did a wave rolled across the gap and pushed me towards the rocks. At this point I decided I wanted to live another day, paddled backwards as fast as I could, and went round the safe way. Rounding Soay was pretty cool.

Found a huge blow hole (see SusExp Youtube video soon to be uploaded) on the west side, then continued round CCW back round to the gap again. Going straight for the safer gap I was faced with a difference challenge – the south-going tide was running through, not that fast but enough to make it wee bit choppy and to take a bit longer.

I was relieved to get to the calmer north side of Hirta and enjoyed the relatively relaxed paddle along the coast towards to cliffs. A lovely bit of coast for exploring some huge caves and arches – all of which I tried to get quickly in and out of as a boulder fell last year from one of the arches.

The lack of control you have in these situations sends shivers down my spine and adrenalin pumping through my veins. I just think 'one fall and that's it...over'. Good for making you appreciate life. So I got to the cliffs below Conachair – at 430m they're the highest sea cliffs in the British Isles. The cave I went into below these cliffs made me feel particularly insignificant and powerless, so I took a quick photo then carried on.

Looking up the cliffs that disappear into the cloud which had a golden glow from the sun was truly awesome – it was like some exotic tropical island. To be honest I don't feel words can do justice, but hopefully a photo can go part way.

Adrenalin still pumping I continued round, now keen to get back for some proper food – I had munched my way through a pack of jelly babies. Also keen for a shower as I'd had to just do a pee in my gear a few times as getting out of the boat wasn't really an option I liked – plus you can't beat that initial warm feeling. Moving on... I rounded the north point and got back to the tent for a dinner of tuna-may sandwiches and chocolate biscuits. I'm lazy with cooking but all my easy food is running out and soon I'll have to start cooking something!